Don’t Look Too Hard

Next, relax. Don’t look too hard. We mean this as sincere and literal advice. Your eye’s sharpest color vision is in the center of your field of view. This is where color-receptor neurons known as cones are most densely concentrated. However, so-called rods, the visual receptors sensitive to black, white, and shades of gray, while insensitive to color, are more sensitive than cones to low levels of light. This means you can actually better see fainter objects with your peripheral vision than with your center-field vision. Learn to look askance at the stars. This practice is sometimes called “averted vision.” Using it, you will typically see fainter stars.
Peering through a telescope for extended periods is fun, but it can also be fatiguing. Don’t squint. Don’t peer. Step away from your telescope periodically to walk around. Relax and enjoy.
You’ll enjoy your astronomy sessions more, as well as reduce fatigue, if you practice keeping both eyes open when you look through the eyepiece. If you can’t resist the urge to close one eye, buy a pirate’s eye patch from the local toy store or costume shop. Then you can keep both eyes open without distraction and even feel like a real celestial navigator. A parrot on the shoulder is optional.

Low-Light Adjustment

You have some learning to get under your belt, but right now, neophyte that you are, you can do something to enhance your experience. Unless you are looking at the bright moon, don’t rush to the eyepiece until you have allowed your vision to become “dark adapted.” This natural adjustment will greatly enhance your ability to see faint objects—and it will make brighter objects that much more exciting. Adapting your eyes to the dark requires about 15 minutes away from sources of light. If somebody shines an uncovered flashlight in your eyes, you’ll have to become dark adapted all over again. Red light, however, will not reverse dark adaptation. For those on liberal budgets, there are specially made, compact flashlights with red bulbs. For the rest of us, either equip your flashlight with a dark red filter (you can use red acetate purchased from a hobby shop) or (less effectively) simply put a red sock over the flashlight. This way, you’ll be able to see what you are doing and even consult star maps without spoiling your dark adaptation.

Learning to See

Understandably, you will be eager to try out your new telescope. Here are a few words of advice: Expect to be thrilled—immediately—by the spectacle of the moon, with its sharply delineated craters and mountains. Point your telescope elsewhere, however, and you may be disappointed—at least until you learn more about what to look for. We have become spoiled by dazzling images from the Hubble Space Telescope, orbiting above our atmosphere and toting the most sophisticated instruments available. No, your telescope won’t duplicate the performance of Hubble. But the point is that it is your telescope, and the photons of light that left the Orion Nebula are striking your retina. The experience is yours.

Your first impulse may be to blame any disappointment you feel on your telescope. Resist the impulse. As you learn what to look for—and as you come to appreciate the significance of what you see—you will derive great satisfaction from your instrument.

How to Find What You’re Looking For?

If your new telescope has go-to capability, all you need to do is follow the manufacturer’s instructions for initially training the instrument and then use the go-to controller to point your telescope at whatever you wish to view. Bear in mind, of course, that light pollution or other atmospheric conditions may obscure your view. Go-to technology is wonderful, but it can’t work miracles. It will point you in the right direction, but it can’t guarantee that you’ll always see what you’re looking for. If your instrument does not have a go-to controller, glance back at Chapter 1, which introduces the idea of celestial coordinates and altazimuth coordinates as well as the utility of constellations as celestial landmarks. Later chapters have more to say about finding specific objects. What you should familiarize yourself with now, however, is the finderscope affixed to the side of your telescope. Unless you have a rich-field telescope, commanding about a three- or four-degree slice of the sky, you will find it almost impossible to locate with the main telescope anything you happen to see with your naked eye. (“There’s Venus! But why can’t I find it with this #^$%@% telescope!?”) Take the time and effort to follow what your instruction manual says about adjusting the finderscope so that it can be used to locate objects quickly. This adjustment should take just a few minutes and can be done in daylight; once it’s done, it’s done (at least until you or someone else bumps the finder out of alignment). In any case, the alignment process is far less tedious and frustrating than trying to sight with your naked eye along the telescope tube and then just hoping you can finally find what you’re looking for.
Another option is called a Telrad Reflex Sight. Many amateurs use one of these—an inexpensive “bullseye” on the sky. In many ways, this product is even more helpful than a finderscope.

Light Pollution and What to Do About It

Light pollution is the obscuring of celestial objects by artificial light sources.
What do you do about it?
You avoid city lights, if you can. The recent trend toward those peach-colored, highpressure, sodium-vapor and bluish metal-halide streetlights may make some people feel safer, but the lamps have also greatly increased light pollution, even in smaller urban areas.
Here are some ways to reduce the effects of light pollution:

• Rise above the streetlights. Set up your telescope on a hill or a safe roof. The cumulative effect of the streetlights will still blot out many of the less bright objects, especially near the horizon, but at least you won’t be trying to look up through the nearest streetlights.
• Study the sky in a direction away from light sources. If your city’s downtown area is east of your location, look west rather than east.
• Get out of town. Scout out some rural retreats away from the city lights but sufficiently clear of trees to allow reasonably unobstructed viewing. Local state parks are often a good option. It may be best to choose parks that offer overnight camping, since some public parks are open only from dawn to dusk. Don’t trespass!
• If you get very interested in observing, you can purchase filters for your telescope that will block out a good portion of the light pollution caused by streetlights. Such filters are available from Meade Instruments, Orion, and other suppliers. Be aware, however, that these filters are most useful for astrophotography or digital imaging and are less effective if your primary imaging device is your own retina. Also, all filters block light, dimming the image you see; so small-aperture telescopes will suffer most from this side effect.
• Write your local city government and encourage officials to install lowpressure, downward-facing sodium lamps. These lights have a yellowish glow and are highly energy efficient. You can get many good ideas on how to reduce light pollution from the International Dark Sky Association (find more at www. darksky.org/).

Unless you live in a nest of searchlights, there should still be enough for a beginner to see.

How to Become an Astrophotographer?

Once you get hooked on looking through a telescope, sooner or later you’re going to want to start recording what you see. One very enjoyable activity is to make drawings, but many serious amateurs sooner or later turn to photography. Astrophotography can be done with any good single-lens reflex (SLR) camera, the right kind of adapter to mate it with your telescope, and a sturdy tripod and mount with a tracking motor to compensate for the rotation of the earth during the long exposures are usually necessary.

As digital technology has greatly simplified and expanded the possibilities of finding objects in space, it has also simplified and expanded the field of professional as well as amateur astrophotography. We discussed how charge-coupled devices (CCDs) have largely replaced conventional photographic film for most astronomical imaging through major earth-based telescopes as well as such space-based instruments as the Hubble Space Telescope. Just as, in recent years, the cost of go-to technology has been greatly reduced, so now is digital imaging within the reach of serious amateurs. The operative word is “serious.” Meade’s Pictor 1616XTE CCD system costs more than $6,000, but the more “entry-level” Pictor 415XTE comes in at just under $2,000. And a very respectable camera from the Santa Barbara Instrument Group (SBIG) called the SBIG ST7 can be purchased (at the time of this writing) for under $3,000. It is likely that, over the years, the cost of CCD imaging will fall even further.

If you are interested in astrophotography, whether using conventional film or with CCD imaging, check out Michael A. Covington’s excellent Astrophotography for the Amateur (Cambridge University Press, 1999) or Jeffrey R. Charles’s Practical Astrophotography (Springer Verlag, 2000)

I’ve Bought My Telescope, Now What?

Many subsequent chapters contain advice on observing various celestial objects, but for now, having bought your telescope (and having assembled it; typically, some assembly is required), what do you do with it?
In two words: Use it.
You don’t need a plan, but many first-time sky watchers christen their new telescope by looking at the moon. A more original inaugural journey begins by marking out an interesting-looking piece of sky for yourself and studying it. Find what you can. Later, we’ll talk about recording what you see.
Another good way to start is to go to your local library and check out Astronomy or Sky & Telescope magazine. Both of these periodicals (and their online equivalents) include a guide to the night sky in their center section every month, and you can check to see if there are any planets in the sky or which constellations are up. Also see Appendix E, “Sources for Astronomers,” for recommended guidebooks. An interesting second activity is to locate another piece of sky—one that looks almost empty—and try to find dim and distant objects. Test the limits of your new telescope and your own eyesight. Notice how many more stars you see with your finder telescope, which has a larger aperture than your eye, and then notice how many stars you see in your main telescope.

The Go-To Revolution

Books on amateur astronomy used to supply only two important pieces of advice about tripods and mounts.
First: Don’t cheap out. Invest in something sturdy and steady.
Second: Choose between an altazimuth mount and an equatorial mount. The simple altazimuth mount is adjustable on two axes: up and down (altitude) and left and right (movement parallel to the horizon, or azimuth). There is nothing automatic about most altazimuth mounts. If you are trying to follow an object, you must continually adjust both the altitude and the azimuth. The alternative equatorial mount is aligned with the earth’s rotational axis and, therefore, may be made to follow a celestial object by adjusting one axis only (to counteract the rotation of the earth).

These two pieces of advice used to be quite sufficient. In the late 1990s, however, popular manufactures started selling even some entry-level telescopes with go-to computer controllers that drive servo-motors built into the telescope mount. The handheld go-to controller stores a database of the locations of thousands of celestial objects. Select a object or punch it its coordinates, and (if properly trained and aligned) the telescope’s servos will point the telescope at your target object.

In addition to servo motors for go-to capability, equatorial and altazimuth mounts typically include a clock drive that synchronizes the telescope with the earth’s rotation so that a given object can be followed—“tracked”—without your having continually to re-aim the telescope.
Go-to capability can work on telescopes that have either altazimuth or equatorial mounts. For example, the go-to features on the Meade ETX 90EC telescope can be used in either equatorial or altazimuth mode. One just has to be careful that the computer has been informed of your choice (usually accomplished on the setup menu). The amazing thing is that go-to technology has become sufficiently affordable to be included in even entry-level telescopes. This feature has truly revolutionized amateur astronomy, greatly broadening its appeal. Keep in mind that the “go-to” hand paddle must typically be purchased as an accessory, and will cost several hundred dollars itself. If this capability is important to you, you should buy a telescope that can be updated at a later time.

Dobsonians: More for Your Money?

During the 1970s, an avid amateur astronomer named John Dobson began building large, standard Newtonian reflectors (10-inch mirrors were typical) and cutting costs by mounting them not on elaborate and expensive equatorial mounts but on inexpensive altazimuth mounts. Dollars were invested in optics and aperture—lightgathering ability—rather than in fancy mounting hardware and clock drives to aid in tracking objects. The result was a powerful reflecting telescope with a wide field of view.

Very nice Dobsonians can be purchased in the $300 to $1,000 range, or you could see if your local amateur astronomy club offers workshops in making your own telescope. Many astronomy club members make their own Dobsonians. Is there a Dobsonian downside? Some users find the simple altazimuth mount—which lacks the ability to track objects—too limiting.

Maksutov-Cassegrain: New Market Leader

Like the Schmidt-Cassegrain telescopes, the Maksutov-Cassegrain is a catadioptric design; however, these newer instruments optimize imaging performance by combining a special spherical meniscus (concave) lens with two mirrors. The secondary mirror multiplies the focal length of the telescope. The combined effect of the concave lens, the aspherical primary mirror, and the convex secondary mirror produces a telescope that is almost as well suited to lunar and planetary observation as a refractor, yet it has many of the reflector’s advantages for deep-space viewing. These qualities are similar to the conventional Schmidt-Cassegrain design, but the Maksutov-Cassegrain variation tends to yield images of greater contrast than one gets from telescopes of the earlier design.

A 7-inch Maksutov is significantly more expensive than an 8-inch Schmidt-Cassegrain; however, Meade has marketed for some years now two extremely popular small Maksutov models, the ETX-90EC and ETX-125EC (90 mm and 125 mm, respectively), which trade aperture for price. The 90-mm model can be purchased for under $500, and the 125-mm model for less than $900.

Diagram of a Maksutov-Cassegrain telescope. Light enters the concave lens at the right and is reflected by the aspheric primary mirror at the left, which sends it back to the spherical secondary mirror on the right. This, in turn, focuses the image on the focal plane on the left.

Schmidt-Cassegrain: High-Performance Hybrid

Also called a catadioptric telescope, the Schmidt-Cassegrain design combines mirrors and lenses. Telescopes of this design are an increasingly popular choice for serious amateurs and introductory astronomy classes. The light passes through a corrector lens before it strikes the primary mirror, which reflects it to a secondary mirror. Since light bounces down the tube an extra time, the focal length of the telescope is effectively doubled, belying the very compact—wide but short and stubby—look of the instrument. A long effective focal length means that these telescopes can have a high magnification (remember that magnification is the ratio of objective focal length to eyepiece focal length) without a cumbersome long tube. Schmidt-Cassegrain telescopes are elegant instruments that offer some of the compactness of rich-field instruments but are much more powerful. The catch?


Diagram of a Schmidt-Cassegrain, or catadioptric, telescope. Light enters from the left and is focused by the primary mirror at the back of the telescope. Then it is refocused by a secondary mirror and sent out through an opening in the primary mirror to an eyepiece at the rear of the telescope.

These are usually more expensive amateur instruments, typically priced from $900 to much, much more, depending on aperture size and features. The portability of the Schmidt-Cassegrain design is a very big plus—not just because a compact telescope is easier to transport, but also because it is easier to keep a small scope stable during use.

Rich-Field Telescopes: Increasing in Popularity

Worth investigating is a relatively new category of telescope. Ultra compact and reasonably priced, rich-field reflectors are typically handheld with a Newtonian focus. What they have in common is a short-tube design that offers low degrees of magnification but a bright, wide field of view (typically a few degrees). They range in price from about $250 to $400 and can weigh as little as 4 or 5 pounds. Highly portable and relatively rugged, these telescopes nevertheless have the disadvantage that, since they are handheld, they do not track with objects in the sky, and are only as steady as you are. The great advantages of these telescopes, besides price, are their portability and the brightness of the image they deliver.

Refractor and Reflector

Refractor
Most astronomers agree that a good refractor is the instrument of choice for viewing the moon and the planets. Typically, the refractor’s field is narrow, which enhances the contrast offered by good optics and brings out the details of such things as the lunar surface and planetary detail.
Refractors, however, are not the best choice for deep-sky work—looking at dim galaxies, for example. They are great for bright objects, but a refracting telescope with the same light-collecting ability of a decent reflecting telescope would be prohibitively expensive.
Some of the cheapest, mass-market telescopes are refractors, but most of these will perform poorly. Most good refractors are long, heavy, and expensive—although the recently introduced Meade ETX-60AT and ETX-70AT are compact yet high-quality entry-level instruments. The disadvantage of expense is obvious, as is that of weight: You’ll be discouraged from taking the telescope with you on trips to the dark skies of the country. Length poses a less obvious problem. The longer the tube, the less inherently steady the telescope. A large refractor requires a very firm mount and tripod.

Reflectors
Traditionally, the Newtonian reflector has been the most popular telescope with experienced amateurs, although, in recent years, affordable Schmidt-Cassegrain and Maksutov-Cassegrain instruments have found increasing favor. Generally, a reflector gives you more aperture—and thus more light—for your dollar than a refractor, and the reflector’s mirror is not subject to chromatic aberration (the differences in the ways various colors, especially red and blue, are focused), which all but the most expensive refractor lenses suffer from. Although reflectors may be large, they are generally lighter than refractors; however, they tend not to be as robust, and unlike a good refracting telescope, they do require at least some minimal maintenance to realign optical components occasionally.

What Will Telescope Cost?

Amateur telescopes come in a wide range of prices, from a low of under $200 to a high of $5,000 and more, much more. There really is no upper limit. Someone out there will be happy to take as much money as you’d care to spend. In fact, the Beck Telescope (a Cassegrain-focus telescope with a 30” diameter primary mirror) located in Bradley Observatory at Agnes Scott College was originally owned privately by one Henry Gibson, who had it housed in a dome near his house. He sold the telescope to the College in 1947 for $15,000—a lot of money back then! The beginner need not invest in the four-digit range; however, spending less than about $300 on a new telescope (except in the case of certain rich-field instruments, which we will get to shortly) is likely to result in disappointment.

If you’ve been hitting the malls and looking at telescopes in department stores, camera stores, hobby shops, and even some optical stores, you may be surprised that most of the instruments you’ve seen will not provide you with a satisfying observing experience. The market is full of telescopes in the $100 to sub-$300 range—and they sell! But they’re mostly not worth their “bargain” prices. That’s not a subjective judgment. It’s a cold, hard fact. Here are some typical attributes of cheap telescopes:

• A cheap, wobbly mount. If the view wiggles, you will have a very frustrating time looking at the sky, especially if there is the slightest breeze, or you bump the telescope trying to focus the image. We’ll discuss mounts in just a few minutes, but be aware that a shoddy equatorial mount is inferior to a simpler altazimuth mount—if that mount is steady and well made.
• A telescope that trumpets its magnification but makes little or no mention of its aperture. Aperture, the diameter of the telescope’s objective lens (if it’s a refractor) or primary mirror (if it’s a reflector), determines how much light you will be able to collect. After you get tired of looking at the moon, you’ll find yourself increasingly interested in the dimmer objects of the night sky. Buy the largest aperture you can afford; aperture size and component quality are far more important than magnification numbers. A 2.75-inch (70 mm) aperture is a very good minimum for a refractor, and a 4-inch (100 mm) aperture is a good minimum for a reflector. Excellent Maksutov-Cassegrain instruments start at 90 mm, but the entry-level Schmidt-Cassegrain is a 5-inch model.
• Poor optical quality. Stars should focus as bright, sharp points of light, not smears, blurs, or flares. Unfortunately, it is rarely possible to field test a telescope before you buy it, so purchase only an instrument that comes with a noquestions-asked return policy. Put the telescope through its paces by focusing on a reasonably bright star. You may want to find Altair, Betelgeuse or Arcturus, for example. On a night with good seeing, the star should focus to a clean point. Next, using the highest magnification, slightly unfocus the image by turning the focus knob first one way and then the other. With good optics that are properly collimated (the optical elements made perfectly parallel with one another), the out-of-focus image will look the same regardless of which way you turn the knob. If the two out-of-focus images are significantly different, the optical collimation is poor.
• Small eyepiece. The modern standard for an eyepiece barrel diameter is 1.25”. Two-inch diameter eyepieces are common on larger, more expensive telescopes (14” diameter mirrors and greater). A short-barrel eyepiece can restrict the field of view at low power and is generally a sign of an inferior telescope.
• A junk finderscope. The finderscope (or finder)—the small telescope attached to the side of the main telescope—is very important for locating the objects you wish to study, especially if your telescope lacks go-to capability. An inferior scope is of little use. Look for one with an aperture of at least 30 millimeters. Also make sure the bracket that mounts the finder is easily, firmly, and accurately adjustable. You’ll need to align the finderscope with the main instrument frequently. You may want to also replace the factory finderscope with a “bullseye” on the sky, powered typically by a small red LED.
• Obscure and/or skimpy instructions. Not only is a clear and ample manual an important aid to using and enjoying a telescope, it is a sign of the quality of thought that has gone into making the instrument.

Telescope shopping advice

Here are a few words of shopping advice—much of which applies to telescopes as well:

• Examine and feel the binoculars. They should strike you as a well-crafted precision instrument.
• Test the focusing mechanism. It should be smooth and offer steady resistance.
  
• Look for antireflection coating on all lenses. This thin coating will make the lenses appear blue, yellow, magenta, or purple when held at an angle to the light.
• Look through the binoculars. Try focusing on a point of light (a distant bulb, for example). It should be absolutely sharp, at least until the point of light gets very near the edge of the field of view.
• Focus on a vertical straight line such as the corner of a building. Even with very good binoculars, the straight line will bend at the extreme edges of your field of view. However, if the line remains bent a third of the way from the edge, the quality of the optics is poor.
• The twin barrels of binoculars must be perfectly parallel with one another. If they aren’t, you will see a double image. Your eyes will work hard to compensate and fuse that double image, but ideally, there should be no double image to fuse.

Do You Really Need a Telescope?

Few experiences with the night sky are more instantly rewarding than your first look at the moon, a nebula, or a planet through a telescope. Saturn, in particular, can look almost too perfect. One of us taught students (while in graduate school) who refused to believe that the planet that they were looking at through the telescope was real. This student insisted that Saturn was a sticker on the telescope lens. However, it is also true that such an experience can be singularly disappointing if that shiny new telescope you bought at the mall turns out to be a piece of wobbly, hard-to-use junk. If you are willing to invest in a good telescope (we’ll talk about the magnitude of the investment in just a moment), and if you are willing to invest the time to learn how to use it, a telescope can be a wonderful thing to have.
But will you use it?
If you are an urban dweller who never escapes the streetlights of the city and are hemmed in by tall buildings, you may be better advised to spend your money elsewhere. Then again, owning a sufficiently portable telescope gives you a good excuse to pack up every once in a while and head for the country, where the skies are darker and the seeing is better.
faint to see with the naked eye visible, all stars are so incredibly far away (the closest beyond our sun, Alpha Centauri, is about four light-years away) that a given star at higher magnification will still be nothing more than a point of light. Magnification is also largely wasted if what you look at is too dim to see well. Get binoculars with the largest aperture (the diameter of the objective, or main lens) you can afford. An aperture of 50 millimeters is a good choice. Couple this with a 7magnification, and you have a 7 50 pair of binoculars—a good allaround choice for handheld viewing.
If you want to successfully use binoculars with a magnification of more than 10or 12, you will need to mount them on a camera tripod equipped with a binocular adaptor clamp or a specially designed binocular tripod; otherwise, the sky will be a blur.
Binoculars have the advantage of being very portable, and whole guidebooks have been written about observing the sky with them (for example, Exploring the Night Sky with Binoculars, by Patrick Moore [3rd ed., Cambridge University Press, 1996]). However, at anywhere from $200 to $1,000 and more, binoculars with high quality optics are not cheap; if you’re thinking about buying a pair of big, expensive binoculars, there are other possibilities you may want to consider.

Little advice about telescope

At nearly $3 billion for the Chandra X-Ray Observatory, astronomy can be a dauntingly expensive pursuit. Fortunately, you don’t have to spend quite that much to get started. In fact, you don’t really have to spend anything. A lot of observation can be done with the naked eye, and many local communities have active amateur astronomers who would be happy to let you gaze at the heavens through their telescopes. Some veteran amateur astronomers even warn newcomers that they will be disappointed with a telescope unless they first obtain some star charts and guidebooks and make an effort to learn the major constellations, perceive differences in brightness, and learn to explain the phases of the moon. “Learn to use your eyes before you buy a telescope,” they say.

There’s some real value in this advice. You need at least a little working knowledge of the sky before you can locate much of anything with a telescope. In addition, the type of telescope you buy will depend in part on the type of observing that you want to do, and you won’t know that until you have a little experience. So our first piece of advice is to be patient: Don’t run out to a sale at your local Mega-Lo-Mart and buy a telescope just yet.

But let’s face it—part of the fun of astronomy is making faint objects look brighter and distant objects look closer. To many, a big part of the fun of astronomy is its tools.